On April 10, Beth Naylor began her 7-month hike of the E4 trail in Europe to raise money for Upward Bound. This column will keep VST readers up-to-date on her progress as she works her way from Spain to Greece, passing through five other countries along the way. For a more detailed account of her trip and to learn more about Upward Bound, visit Beth’s Web site, www.uvm.edu/BethsAdventure.
April 15—Palas de Rei-Portamarin
Today was a huge turning point for me. Until now, I had been struggling with sore feet (my boots are far too stiff for all the flat walking I’ve been doing) and I’ve also had serious doubts about my direction of travel on El Camino. I even considered taking a bus to the other end and hiking the correct way so I could hike with others. But today I decided not to do that and to try wearing sandals instead of hiking boots. What a relief to walk in flexible soles! My speed picked up immediately, as did my mood.
For the first time I felt the empowerment that comes from a solo adventure. I now understand that I am doing my own pilgrimage and am not being sacrilegious by hiking El Camino in the reverse direction. For some, it is the cathedral at Santiago de Compestella that motivates them. For me, it is the Pyrenees, the Alps, and ultimately Crete. Today I developed my El Camino pace and walked at an endorphin-producing clip. My day ended with a private tour of a magnificent cathedral by a kind priest.
April 22—Leon, Spain
I purchased a pair of inexpensive flexible-soled shoes, and my feet are much happier! I sent my heavy boots ahead and am carrying a remarkably light pack.
I’ve exited the province of Galicia, and am in the province of Leon. Galicia is typically associated with its white wines, while Leon, a drier climate, is known for its reds. In general, wine and food is inexpensive compared to American standards. In fact, wine is less expensive than water. A standard menu del dia (menu of the day) is $5.00-$7.00. Leon is a city filled with beautiful architecture and a sophistication missing from many of the agriculturally focused cities and towns I’ve passed through so far. The cathedral is a sight I wish I could share with all of you.
Life on the trail has been a fantastic experience in some respects, but disappointing in others. Most disappointing has been the terrain. In general it has been flat, with a considerable amount of road walking. My true love for hiking lies within the mountains, and not on hard surfaces with cars. The saving grace has been the people I’ve met. My current tally on nationalities I’ve spent time with is 13.
I’m reveling in the fact that I’m going the opposite direction on El Camino. Every day is completely different from the previous one because of all the new people I meet. Although I have been staying primarily at municipal refugeos, I’ve had two opportunities to stay at private refugeos, where the caretakers refused payment because of what my trip represents and the distance I am going.
The other night, I had a most unusual experience. Jesus Jato (roughly pronounced “Hey Zeus Yato”), who runs one of the private refugeos, is famous among Camino walkers for his healing powers and ability to read other peoples’ energy. When we met, he told me I possessed so much positive energy that I was capable of being a healer, and that I was an angel. For the rest of the evening, I was called “Angel” and was asked by others to sit by them in order to give them energy.
May 8—Pamplona, Spain
I am now in the foothills of the Pyrenees, a range of mountains that are a natural border between Spain and France. What a relief it is to finally reach the mountains! Although I’ve had a rich cultural experience walking from church steeple to church steeple, I’m ready to challenge myself physically hiking from peak to peak
On El Camino I averaged 30-40 kilometers a day. My feet have been holding up well, and the weather has been most pleasurable. My hands are finally recovering from a sun allergy (due to overexposure), which left them covered with blisters. I encountered rain a few times, but no continuous days of downpour. I stayed at several different refugeos, some large (150 bed capacity) and others quite small (8-9 beds). In general, I enjoyed the smaller refugeos in desolate areas more than the larger ones in metropolitan locations. In the smaller ones, you have the opportunity to eat with others for at least one meal, which is often conducive to excellent conversation. My current nationality tally is up to 17! Furthermore, the snore factor is much less a problem at the smaller places. When hiking El Camino, don’t leave home without your earplugs! Tired hikers have a tendency to snore at a decibel level that I did not know was humanly possible.
After leaving the Province of Galicia, the trail was not well marked. I’ve had to play a fair amount of detective work and have become an expert at tracking footprints and reading arrows in the reverse direction. I’ve continued to meet a vast variety of people, including some wonderful Canadians from Quebec and a fellow New Englander.
My initial itinerary was to traverse the Pyrenees into France in one day and continue on through France to the Alps. However, I’ve decided that one day in the Pyrenees is not enough. I’m going to walk the spine of the Pyrenees on either the GR 10 (French side) or the GR 11 (Spanish side). My first choice is the French side, because of my French language proficiency, but the Spanish side has been known to be a bit drier.
So, my next move is to Madrid via bus to collect my mountain gear, which a friend has been holding for me while I’ve been on El Camino. After I’m properly prepared and informed for my Pyrenees diversion, I’ll take a bus to my starting point. I’ll be hiking from east to west because that is the direction in which the guides are written. Although it seems practical to do it in the opposite direction, considering my current location and destination, I’ve decided going against the grain would not be a safe decision in the mountains.
May 15—Adios Spain; Vive la France!
I’ve finally made it to France and it feels great! I write from St-Jean-Pier-de-Port, having just finished five challenging days in the Pyrenees. I love the mountains! From the minute my feet passed over French soil, I’ve been amazed at the sincerity of the people I’ve encountered. From apples to energy bars to three-course meals, people have been donating food and kindness to me and my trek for Upward Bound.
The hiking has been a challenge to my lungs as well as my quads, exactly what I was craving in Spain. The trail I’m on, the GR 10, runs the length of the French side of the Pyrenees from the Atlantic Ocean to the Mediterranean Sea. I ascend and descend peaks every day. For the most part, the Gite D’etapes (French refuges) are located at lower elevations. So far, I’ve been climbing some of the smaller peaks, all lower than 1200 meters, but within the next 10 days I’ll be breaking 2000 meters on a regular basis.
France is certainly a country more oriented to hiking than Spain. I was able to get the guidebooks I need in a small bookstore in the first town I entered. The trail is well marked in both directions. I’ve met several people, but they’ve all been day hikers with the exception of one other GR thru-hiker. The terrain varies from steep ascents and descents to rolling grassy ridgelines to unpleasant pavement. I sometimes begin the day on pavement on my way out of town, then move on to a smaller road used by shepherds, and finally I’m on a trail at the higher elevations, where I’ve encountered several grazing animals, including sheep, goats, horses, and cattle.
Well, I must go restock food supply for tomorrow’s trek before the stores close. I hope May has brought some good weather for all of you in Vermont!
Your European Rambler, Beth
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