D&H Rail Trail

Scenery and Ambience

By Dave Kraus

These days more cities are developing urban trail networks for multipurpose use that benefit cyclists, runners, and walkers. But it’s still unusual to find well-developed rural trails that can let you get away from the bustle of the city. Vermont is one of the states that has some beautiful rural trails, and in the southern half of the state, the D&H Rail Trail is the place to go for country scenery and small-town ambience – along the Vermont/New York border, just 15 miles west of Rutland.

This 19.8-mile trail follows the route of the Delaware & Hudson railway that first started serving the area in the 1850s, with local passenger service and hauling the area’s unique red roofing slate to market from the quarries in the area. The railroad shut down in 1980 and in the state began developing the trail three years later. 

The D&H is split into two distinct segments in Vermont – the 9.5-mile north half from Castleton to Poultney and the 9.7-mile southern half from West Pawlet to Rupert with sections that meander across the border into New York around Granville. The entire distance including the gap between the two segments is 34 miles. Let’s take a closer look…

North Trail: Castleton to Poultney – The trail’s northern end in Castleton is across the street from the railroad station and offers parking for several cars. If you have a large group, you may have to prospect a bit for parking around town. Start your ride and almost immediately you will pass through the Vermont State University Castleton campus, then continue south through fields and forest until mile 4.5, where the trail crosses VT Route 30. Be alert as this road can be busy.

Keep riding south on the trail that is largely doubletrack along the old rail bed. The surface isn’t as smooth as a manicured trail, but the entire trail is suitable for wide tire mountain, gravel, and hybrid bikes. At mile 7.7, you’ll reach Main Street in the small town of Poultney. It’s worth exploring for a break at one of several eateries. Turn right off the trail for available snacks and restrooms at Stewart’s Shops. Definitely stop in at Analog Cycles on the corner of Main and Depot Streets: analogcycles.com. This boutique store has a wide selection of bikes, parts, and other items that epitomize the casual style of rural Vermont cycling.

This north segment of the trail officially ends at mile 9.5 at the New York border, where you can get a glimpse of some of the old slate quarries to your left. Turn around and head back to Poultney, and then you have a choice – continue north back to Castleton for 19 total miles. Or continue south in the “In-Between.”

The In-Between (aka “Missing Link”): Poultney to West Pawlet – To continue south from Poultney after returning from the quarry, turn left on Bentley Street, then curve left onto Granville Street, and continue up the hill and into New York, to turn left at mile 12.6 onto NY Route 22A. It can be busy, but there’s a wide shoulder that will take you south to mile 15.2, where you cross the road onto the quieter Butler Road that will take you to the “T” at mile 17.6, where you will jog right on Depot Street. When you see the Middle Granville, NY depot on the right (now a private home) turn south as the rail trail resumes.

You’re now back on the trail, though it’s not part of the official southern segment until you reach West Pawlet at mile 23.7. This unimproved middle portion of the trail meanders through Granville, NY, then hugs the New York border south. The doubletrack and dirt trail is easy to follow and ride on. 

South Trail: West Pawlet to West Rupert – The official south segment of the trail starts here, just barely back in Vermont in West Pawlet at Egg Street, where there’s more trail parking. You can start and end your ride here, if you just want to ride this southern portion. From here south to West Rupert the trail has been improved with gravel overlay, though it’s still doubletrack in spots.

Head south over one of the many historic bridges on the trail and out of town along the Indian River. Enjoy the beautiful rural scenery, trailside art, grazing livestock, and the seas of golden dandelions if your spring timing is right. At mile 31, you’ll pass a pond – look ahead for a spectacular view of the trail heading toward the far-off hills. 

As you pass by the village of Rupert you will see another old depot turned into a private home and beautiful views of the Green Mountains. At mile 33, turn left on the unpaved Hebron Cross Road, then take another left onto the road and north to West Rupert, where you will find Sherman’s Store. It’s a truly old-fashioned country store with groceries, drinks, snack, and restrooms. They will put together a deli sandwich for you and if you’re lucky, they have a pot of their mac and cheese simmering and ready to eat. Grab a spot on the bench out front while you eat to watch the rural Vermont world go by.

Done at Sherman’s? Turn around and head back to Castleton for a long 68-mile day. You can enjoy this beautiful trail in one bite or divide it up for several rides. 

Here are some one-way mileages, just double it for the round trip: Castleton to Slate Quarry (Poultney): 9.5 miles. Castleton to West Pawlet: 23.7 miles. Castleton to West Rupert (Sherman’s): 34 miles. West Pawlet to West Rupert (Sherman’s): 9.7 miles.

Trail Rules and Etiquette – The D&H is a typical rail trail with variations in condition and a wide variety of trail users. When you’re riding there, please remember: Watch for muddy spots and avoid them so you don’t damage the trail. Bicycles are considered vehicles by Vermont law and must follow traffic laws. It’s OK to use your e-bike... but motorbikes, motorized scooters, ATVs, and ORVs are not permitted on the trail. Horses are permitted on the trail. If you encounter riders, stop and wait for them to pass safely. Yield to livestock and other animals. Dogs are permitted – watch for those extended leashes. Clear communication is key, so give a clear warning and SLOW DOWN before passing other trail users. 

The ninth annual Tour de Slate “ride to end addiction” is on Saturday, Aug. 1, starting in Middletown Springs. The six ‘no drop’ routes along the VT/NY border are for all levels. There are two “groad” rides with a mix of gravel and paved roads of 40 and 25 miles, led by experienced gravel riders. For road cyclists, there are rides of 62 miles (metric century), 36 and 25 miles, and an 8-mile family ride starting in West Pawlet on the D&H Rail Trail. The rides are open to individuals and teams, including ebikers, and benefit Adult and Teen Challenge VT: tourdeslate.org.

To learn more about the Slate Valley Trails around Poultney, Castleton, and Wells, including their 60 miles of trails and events for mountain biking, hiking, trail running, and winter sports, go to: slatevalleytrails.org. Enjoy!

Dave Kraus (dbkgrafik@gmail.com) is a road and gravel cyclist, photographer, writer, and professional guide for Discovery Bike Tours and Farm to Fork Fitness who would be happy to show your bike tour group a good time all over the Great Northeast.